By, Kritika Yadav (student) B.Design (Textile Design) Satyam Fashion Institute, Noida Chikankari is a very delicate and intricate shadow work type of embroidery from Uttar Pradesh, India. It is mainly practised in Lucknow and adjoining areas. Initially, the embroidery was done using white yarn, on colour less muslins knows as colourless, today, georgette, chiffon, cotton and other fine fabrics are also being used. From being an embellishment used primarily for decorating clothes, Chikankari embroidery has now spread to home decor items like cushion covers, pillow slips, table linen and so on. Fig 1: Chikankari of Lucknow There are various theories behind naming of the term ‘chikankari’. As per one version, the word has been derived from a Persian word chain or shaken, which means creating delicate patterns on a fabrics with threads. According to others, it may be a distorted version of chicken or sequin coin valuing Rs. 4, the amount for which it was bought. Yet another explanations ascribes the term to the chikan in Bengali language which means ‘fine’. This fine embroidery is popularly known as ‘white embroidery’ as it was primarily done with white cotton threads on sheer muslin cloths to give a very subtle but rich texture to a plain woven fabric. Techniques used The technique of creation of a chikan work is artfully done with cotton threads on Pastel shades of light muslin and cotton garments. With increasing popularity, the embroidery is also done with coloured and silk threads in colours to meet the fashion trends and keep chinkari up-to-date. Lucknow is termed as the hub of the chikankari work today. Chikan work in the recent times is now combined with additional embellishment like Mukaish work where small pieces of flat wires are inserted in the fabric, mainly seen in case of zardozi embroidery, use of...
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October 21, 2020By, Divya (student) B.Design (Fashion Design) Satyam Fashion Institute, Noida Fashion Prints are the prints which are not woven into the fabric but are applied over the fabric. It is an applied form of print which is done by using various techniques. We will be talking more about digital print. It is described as an ink jet based method of printing colorants onto the fabric. It is also called Direct-to-Garment printing (DTG). It has higher resolution and sharper than other printing methods. Fact: This printing process first started in the US in 1996. This printing process gained growth in 2015 globally and was used for garments, home décor, and industrial application and also for many other proposes. Floral Prints First print we will talk about is floral print. This print has flowers all around as the name suggests. It is the arrangement of using plant material and flowers to create an eye catching composition. This print incorporates harmony all over the print. This print can be used in apparel for men’s, women’s, and kids wear. This print can also be used for home furnishing products like curtains, cushion covers, etc. Floral print is the most evergreen fashion trend. Fig 1: Floral print used in apparels and home furnishing products Polka Dot Print: Polka dot is a pattern consisting of round dot/circles regularly distributed on surface. This design can be in various styles and colors. This print is ever classic on the trend board. Black and White polka dot is the most used and loved combination. This print is also used as backgrounds for photo shoots. This print also gives a retro vibes. Fig 2: Polka Dot print can be used in various forms Abstract Print: An abstract print is a visual representation of lines, shapes, colors and what not. Anything...
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September 30, 2020By, Kratika Maheshwari (student) B.Design (Textile Design) Satyam Fashion Institute, Noida As we know that the word Phulkari is derived from two words Phul means flower where Akari means shape. In other words, we can said that phulkari is a traditional embroidery of Punjab which generally defines a way of making floral pattern, designs on the fabrics and garments. It is an embroidery which is innovative in terms of the beautiful, shiny texture created on a dull fabric. It has a ceremonial significance as these are commonly in wedding ceremonies and cultural events in the Punjabi families. Techniques and motifs Phulkari derives its richness from the use of darning stitch in different directions horizontal, vertical and diagonal. Unless others, embroidery on phulkari was done from the wrong side of the khaddar with a floss silk thread called pat. Fig 1: Darning stitches used in Phulkari Process (Step by step) Begin by pulling the needle and floss up through the fabric and do one stitch forward. From underneath, space the needle out the length of your desired stitch, pull up through the fabric, and bring the needle and floss back down through the end of the previous stitch. Fig. 2 Geometric designs used in Phulkari The very beautiful and popular motifs were used in embroidery are geometric adapted from local flora and fauna likejasmine flower(motia), lotus(kamal), peacock(mor), sunflower (surajmukhi)etc. Various other geometrical shapes and pattern were embroidered on the dupattas or odhni. Fig. 3. Phulkari embroidery on different products Ceremonial Significance: An Expression Wearing a work on phulkari is not only an object of beauty but it is strongly reflected in the cultural values of a family. There is a phulkari for every occasion! A rich heritage of Punjab which is generally represented in Indian wedding and celebrations was initiated by the...
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September 16, 2020By, Akansha Sharma (student) B.Design (Textile Design) Satyam Fashion Institute, Noida Kantha is an exquisite embroidery, once done out of necessity on the used fabrics or old saris. This age old technique is a beautiful example of textile upcycling at its source. Today, it has become a means of enhancing adornment on saris and other fabrics. It is perhaps the oldest form of Indian embroidery as it can be traced back to the first and second century A.D. It derives its name from the Sanskrit word Kantha meaning ‘rags’, which reflects the fact that Kantha embroidery is made up of discarded garments or cloths. Fig.1 women engaged in this craft Stitches Used Kantha is a women-oriented embroidery of West Bengal. Women often recycled their old saris and dhotis by layering, stitching and embellishing the scrap fabric to make blankets, bed spreads, household articles etc. The cloth used was generally fine cotton but now a days, silk is being extensively used for adding more value to the product. As a self-sustainable craft, even the coloured threads of pallu (end cloth) of the original sari were pulled out and used for embroidery. The predominant stitches used in Kantha are running stitch or darning stitch, other stitches are Chatai [mat pattern], Bakhiya [back stitch], Dal Phor (stem stitch), Tirchi [oblique] and even satin stitch is used. The real Kantha is Do-rukha [double faced] so skillfully made that the design are visible on the both sides. Fig.2 Stitches used in kantha Designs and Motifs Motifs used in Kantha are generally inspired from nature and have its own traditional and religious significance for example lotus, associated with purity, tree of life represents phases of life and sun symbolizes the life etc. Motifs contain flora and fauna motifs and geometrical motifs as well. Now a days,...
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August 18, 2020By, Manvi Khanna (Student) B.Design (Fashion Design) Satyam Fashion Institute, Noida Keeping cool won’t be an issue in spring/summer season 2020 thanks to crochet. You will find this fabric will still in style for next season, with even better design coming our way. It can be worn by different age groups Toddler loves to wear crochet Figure.1.2 Babies turn into toddlers so fast and once they learn to walk, it is the perfect time for crochet toddler dress. Toddlers are more comfortable with short bursts of soothing colourful environments. As in (Figure.1.1) toddler is wearing a colourful crochet dress. It always make a fun look with matching hair band. (Figure.1.4) A vintage White crochet dress with embellished flower at the waist we can also pair it with matching decorative crochet hat (Figure.1.2) and sandals will increase the cuteness of the toddler. We (Figure.1.3). Figure.1.1 Figure .1.3 Figure .1.4 Crochet dresses for Women Formal Attire When dressing for the office, it’s important to feel comfortable as you will be wearing these clothes all day .Here’s a decent black crochet dress which will intensify your persona (Figure.2.1). Don’t forget to pair it with white croc pointed block heels (Figure.2.2) and white clutch in faux leather with narrow shoulder strap in faux leather and metal chain (Figure.2.3). And accessorised with long drop pearl earrings (Figure.2.4) Figure .2.2 Figure .2.1 Figure .2.3 Figure .2.4 Beach wears Swimsuits aren’t the only cute wear you can rock on the beach. You can also slay at the beach with Crochet attire. Here’s a stunning dark grey off shoulder crochet dress (Figure.3.1) you can try to wear at the beach. Pair it with simple straps thong lace flat sandals (Figure.3.2) and complementing Panama hat (Figure.3.3). Figure.3.1 Figure .3.3 Figure .3.2 Cocktail wear Cocktail attire for women can be...
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August 1, 2020By, Riya Tyagi (Student) B.Design (Textile Design) Satyam Fashion Institute Kasuti is a style of embroidery that has caught the world unaware, the kasuti style of Dharwad sarees are indeed mystic. A style that has found its origins in the seven scenic hills, kasuti is a hand-woven variety of embroidery. Basically, found in the Silk pallus, Kasuti embroidery consists of interwoven geometric patterns that make up for this interesting design. It has mostly been adapted from the temple designs and architectural musings of the surroundings. Image: Stitches of Kasuti – In two colours for understanding the technique of creating reversible designs This style originated way back in the 7th century in the lands of Western Karnataka in the regions of Dharwad. This is the real source of the name Dharwad Sarees The name has a very kannada feel to it with Kai’ meaning hand and Suti’ meaning Cotton to make up for Kasuti embroidery which literally means handwork of Cotton thread. This embroidery pattern found its source in the Ikal sarees, a variety of cotton sarees found in the regions of Ikal. The tradition followed was to gift a bride a blue embroidered Cotton Saree. These patterns are close folded and, formed out of four stitches known as gavanti, muragi, nevgi and menthe. These stitches are completely based on the thread count method and are equidistant. Today, this embroidery is no longer just prevalent in sarees. One can find fine traces of this embroidery in salwar suits and dress materials as well. Employing various kasuti weavers by bringing in the tradition of this embroidery in sarees and dress materials gives out a splendid present time for the Dharwad sarees. The materials are not limited to Cotton anymore. They have started ranging from Silk to other varieties including Nylon. Kasuti embroidery is...
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By, Ujjwal Ankur , Asst. Professor Satyam Fashion Institute Art can be defined as the”Representation of Imagination and Observation through any medium on any surface with an aesthetic sense. And Technology can be defined as the application of scientific knowledge for the practical purpose. Art and Technology are very much related to each other. Very interestingly, this is not a new phenomenon. Normally people consider technology as a new and modern term but it is not. From the ancient age of the world, the art was made with the influence and help of its contemporary technology. The field of art is filled with numerous examples of such cases.. We can classify its relation with technology in three parts. Art depicting Technology Art influenced by the Technology Art made with the use of Technology 1. Art which depicts technology: Figure 1: Terracotta Sculpture, Indus Valley Civilization 1 From the very beginning, artists tried to show the contemporary as well as futuristic technologies through their art. Depiction Figure 2: Terracotta Sculpture, Indus Valley Civilization 2 of Bullock Cart from the terracotta sculptures and practice of pot making and metal casting with the use of lost wax process in one of the oldest civilizations of the world known as Indus Valley Civilization which was around 5000 years ago from now shows the close relation between art and technology. Figure 3: Sketch of Leonardo Da Vinci 3 The legacy continues with the sketches of Flying Machines by Leonardo Da Vinci at the time of High Renaissance (14th century), Paintings of Turner in the era of Romanticism (18th Century) and so on. 2. Art influenced by the Technology: Figure 4: A Sunday on La Grande Jatte by Seurat 4 The close and real interaction with the technology and art can be traced when camera was...
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By, Dr. Vandana Jaglan, Principal Satyam Fashion Institute It’s been quite a time now that I have started reusing my old stuff like books, papers, jewellery, garments, sarees etc. This was mainly due to the fact that I feel so attached to certain things that I really love to keep them for longer time. Also, it helped me to give a new look or new use to my best kept oldies. Since the lockdown period started in India due to spread of coronavirus pandemic, all of us had a setback and really had to rethink the ways we have been working/ spending our time and we tried to adapt to what all was becoming a new normal. There was a scarcity of resources, essentials at many places; shopping list got changed where everyone was buying protective masks, kits; people were rushing to their home towns to save their lives. We were in a fix as things weren’t happening the way it should have been. But, amidst all of this, there was a new wave of trying to cook new recipes, learn new skills, develop new hobbies and be with your loved ones which set a new world’s vision. This was the time for us to re-invent, redo and redefine our priorities – and of all, we learnt to be flexible, I suppose. As a textile enthusiast, I also wanted to do my bit by indulging myself creating something useful for me, my family and those around me. So, I tried to make mask from old clothes with minimum (actually almost no) wastage. Here is a glimpse of what I could do with what I had….
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June 5, 2020By, Anushka Jha (Student) B.Design (Textile Design) Dr. Sakshi Shail, Assistant Professor Satyam Fashion Institute Dabu Print A traditional art and originated from the pockets of Rajasthan, Dabu print is a detailed, unique and mud resist hand block printing technique. Dabu print fabric has its own charm and beauty that is appreciated around the world. The practice of Dabu print, almost vanished in the last century; but it was revived by artisans and today, it is a flourishing business across the world. Dabu print fabric is known for displaying subtle depth and extra ordinary beauty. The designs and motifs of Dabu Printing are very similar to the traditional Rajasthani designs. These are inspired by natural alignments like plants, birds, flowers, fruits and artistic ethnic motifs which really look beautiful. Many fashion designers have taken inspiration from Dabu print fabric and have created beautiful garment collections. The appearance of these fabrics is unique for the brilliant floral and thematic patterns in sharp and finely detailed prints of bright and well-chosen hues & designs that embrace the fabric. Making: The process of making is very interesting and involves different stages. Firstly, the fabric received from the mills is carefully washed to remove impurities. The motifs and designs are printed on to the fabric using blocks which are dipped into fast dyes. After that the fabric is spread out in sun for the drying, and later dipped into a vat of dye and then again left for drying. And this is how this beautiful Rajasthani Handicraft is made. Colors and dyes: Traditional dabu prints are made with natural dyes like kashish (grey-brown) and indigo (blue), as well as yellows and reds derived from fruits like pomegranate. Today a lot more color options are available to artisans since they are no longer restricted to...
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By, Ms Megha Gupta, Assistant Professor Satyam Fashion Institute A match is more essential than pleasant. A person might have a garment of the highest construction, but if it doesn’t suit you well, it’ll look terrible. Improper fitting of clothes’ affects the buying decision of the customers. The top concern of clients especially teens and girls is, to purchase clothes that have the right fitting and yet fashionable. The clothes, which after carrying, does not display any wrinkles pull or useless fluffiness are of the right match. Also, the garments with right located seams, darts, and grain lines have the best fitting ( Figure 1). The importance of the right fit of garment varies with its type. Like in the case of tight-becoming dress smallest of misfit is quite seen and noticeable, while for loose-becoming garments 100% proper in shape isn’t always required and does not make plenty difference. Figure 1 : (source) Apart from the customers, the ready-made garment producers and outlets also endure the consequences in terms of loss of time, assets and damage to merchandise because of fitting issue problems. Whether a particular garment is bought or rejected is decided primarily based on its match other than its visual attractiveness. However well-fitted garments do not imply that they have got to be body-hugging or tight, different varieties of attire and clothes want a special diploma of the becoming, as the right becoming criteria for nighttime wear and nightwear, is different. Issues related to Fitting and Sizing: Sizing Creation- It varies from one label to another, therefore inflicting dissatisfaction among clients. In India, the multinational corporations manufacturing clothes in step with the English and American requirements which aren’t at all practical. Body Variations- The sizing standards need to be organized in line with sexes and specific age...