By, Kratika Maheshwari (student) B.Design (Textile Design) Satyam Fashion Institute, Noida As we know that the word Phulkari is derived from two words Phul means flower where Akari means shape. In other words, we can said that phulkari is a traditional embroidery of Punjab which generally defines a way of making floral pattern, designs on the fabrics and garments. It is an embroidery which is innovative in terms of the beautiful, shiny texture created on a dull fabric. It has a ceremonial significance as these are commonly in wedding ceremonies and cultural events in the Punjabi families. Techniques and motifs Phulkari derives its richness from the use of darning stitch in different directions horizontal, vertical and diagonal. Unless others, embroidery on phulkari was done from the wrong side of the khaddar with a floss silk thread called pat. Fig 1: Darning stitches used in Phulkari Process (Step by step) Begin by pulling the needle and floss up through the fabric and do one stitch forward. From underneath, space the needle out the length of your desired stitch, pull up through the fabric, and bring the needle and floss back down through the end of the previous stitch. Fig. 2 Geometric designs used in Phulkari The very beautiful and popular motifs were used in embroidery are geometric adapted from local flora and fauna likejasmine flower(motia), lotus(kamal), peacock(mor), sunflower (surajmukhi)etc. Various other geometrical shapes and pattern were embroidered on the dupattas or odhni. Fig. 3. Phulkari embroidery on different products Ceremonial Significance: An Expression Wearing a work on phulkari is not only an object of beauty but it is strongly reflected in the cultural values of a family. There is a phulkari for every occasion! A rich heritage of Punjab which is generally represented in Indian wedding and celebrations was initiated by the...
Students Blog
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September 16, 2020By, Akansha Sharma (student) B.Design (Textile Design) Satyam Fashion Institute, Noida Kantha is an exquisite embroidery, once done out of necessity on the used fabrics or old saris. This age old technique is a beautiful example of textile upcycling at its source. Today, it has become a means of enhancing adornment on saris and other fabrics. It is perhaps the oldest form of Indian embroidery as it can be traced back to the first and second century A.D. It derives its name from the Sanskrit word Kantha meaning ‘rags’, which reflects the fact that Kantha embroidery is made up of discarded garments or cloths. Fig.1 women engaged in this craft Stitches Used Kantha is a women-oriented embroidery of West Bengal. Women often recycled their old saris and dhotis by layering, stitching and embellishing the scrap fabric to make blankets, bed spreads, household articles etc. The cloth used was generally fine cotton but now a days, silk is being extensively used for adding more value to the product. As a self-sustainable craft, even the coloured threads of pallu (end cloth) of the original sari were pulled out and used for embroidery. The predominant stitches used in Kantha are running stitch or darning stitch, other stitches are Chatai [mat pattern], Bakhiya [back stitch], Dal Phor (stem stitch), Tirchi [oblique] and even satin stitch is used. The real Kantha is Do-rukha [double faced] so skillfully made that the design are visible on the both sides. Fig.2 Stitches used in kantha Designs and Motifs Motifs used in Kantha are generally inspired from nature and have its own traditional and religious significance for example lotus, associated with purity, tree of life represents phases of life and sun symbolizes the life etc. Motifs contain flora and fauna motifs and geometrical motifs as well. Now a days,...
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August 18, 2020By, Manvi Khanna (Student) B.Design (Fashion Design) Satyam Fashion Institute, Noida Keeping cool won’t be an issue in spring/summer season 2020 thanks to crochet. You will find this fabric will still in style for next season, with even better design coming our way. It can be worn by different age groups Toddler loves to wear crochet Figure.1.2 Babies turn into toddlers so fast and once they learn to walk, it is the perfect time for crochet toddler dress. Toddlers are more comfortable with short bursts of soothing colourful environments. As in (Figure.1.1) toddler is wearing a colourful crochet dress. It always make a fun look with matching hair band. (Figure.1.4) A vintage White crochet dress with embellished flower at the waist we can also pair it with matching decorative crochet hat (Figure.1.2) and sandals will increase the cuteness of the toddler. We (Figure.1.3). Figure.1.1 Figure .1.3 Figure .1.4 Crochet dresses for Women Formal Attire When dressing for the office, it’s important to feel comfortable as you will be wearing these clothes all day .Here’s a decent black crochet dress which will intensify your persona (Figure.2.1). Don’t forget to pair it with white croc pointed block heels (Figure.2.2) and white clutch in faux leather with narrow shoulder strap in faux leather and metal chain (Figure.2.3). And accessorised with long drop pearl earrings (Figure.2.4) Figure .2.2 Figure .2.1 Figure .2.3 Figure .2.4 Beach wears Swimsuits aren’t the only cute wear you can rock on the beach. You can also slay at the beach with Crochet attire. Here’s a stunning dark grey off shoulder crochet dress (Figure.3.1) you can try to wear at the beach. Pair it with simple straps thong lace flat sandals (Figure.3.2) and complementing Panama hat (Figure.3.3). Figure.3.1 Figure .3.3 Figure .3.2 Cocktail wear Cocktail attire for women can be...
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August 1, 2020By, Riya Tyagi (Student) B.Design (Textile Design) Satyam Fashion Institute Kasuti is a style of embroidery that has caught the world unaware, the kasuti style of Dharwad sarees are indeed mystic. A style that has found its origins in the seven scenic hills, kasuti is a hand-woven variety of embroidery. Basically, found in the Silk pallus, Kasuti embroidery consists of interwoven geometric patterns that make up for this interesting design. It has mostly been adapted from the temple designs and architectural musings of the surroundings. Image: Stitches of Kasuti – In two colours for understanding the technique of creating reversible designs This style originated way back in the 7th century in the lands of Western Karnataka in the regions of Dharwad. This is the real source of the name Dharwad Sarees The name has a very kannada feel to it with Kai’ meaning hand and Suti’ meaning Cotton to make up for Kasuti embroidery which literally means handwork of Cotton thread. This embroidery pattern found its source in the Ikal sarees, a variety of cotton sarees found in the regions of Ikal. The tradition followed was to gift a bride a blue embroidered Cotton Saree. These patterns are close folded and, formed out of four stitches known as gavanti, muragi, nevgi and menthe. These stitches are completely based on the thread count method and are equidistant. Today, this embroidery is no longer just prevalent in sarees. One can find fine traces of this embroidery in salwar suits and dress materials as well. Employing various kasuti weavers by bringing in the tradition of this embroidery in sarees and dress materials gives out a splendid present time for the Dharwad sarees. The materials are not limited to Cotton anymore. They have started ranging from Silk to other varieties including Nylon. Kasuti embroidery is...
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June 5, 2020By, Anushka Jha (Student) B.Design (Textile Design) Dr. Sakshi Shail, Assistant Professor Satyam Fashion Institute Dabu Print A traditional art and originated from the pockets of Rajasthan, Dabu print is a detailed, unique and mud resist hand block printing technique. Dabu print fabric has its own charm and beauty that is appreciated around the world. The practice of Dabu print, almost vanished in the last century; but it was revived by artisans and today, it is a flourishing business across the world. Dabu print fabric is known for displaying subtle depth and extra ordinary beauty. The designs and motifs of Dabu Printing are very similar to the traditional Rajasthani designs. These are inspired by natural alignments like plants, birds, flowers, fruits and artistic ethnic motifs which really look beautiful. Many fashion designers have taken inspiration from Dabu print fabric and have created beautiful garment collections. The appearance of these fabrics is unique for the brilliant floral and thematic patterns in sharp and finely detailed prints of bright and well-chosen hues & designs that embrace the fabric. Making: The process of making is very interesting and involves different stages. Firstly, the fabric received from the mills is carefully washed to remove impurities. The motifs and designs are printed on to the fabric using blocks which are dipped into fast dyes. After that the fabric is spread out in sun for the drying, and later dipped into a vat of dye and then again left for drying. And this is how this beautiful Rajasthani Handicraft is made. Colors and dyes: Traditional dabu prints are made with natural dyes like kashish (grey-brown) and indigo (blue), as well as yellows and reds derived from fruits like pomegranate. Today a lot more color options are available to artisans since they are no longer restricted to...
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April 4, 2020By, Shreya Golchcha (Student) B.Design (Fashion Design) Ms. Megha Gupta (Assistant Professor) Satyam Fashion Institute Whether you like buying into trends or prefer to stick with basics, you need to add pastels to your wardrobe. Soft hues are a classic spring staple and are timeless enough that you can wear them year after year, yet when styled just right, they’re also super trendy and cool. How can you style pastels? MONOCHROME Choose one color and stick to it throughout your entire outfit as in Figure 1. It always makes a smashing look. This will elongate your silhouette and jazz up your persona. Pair it with thread earrings (Figure 1.1) and block heels (Figure 1.2). Here we try to keep it basic, giving a balanced look. Try to stick with minimalism. Figure 1 Figure 1.1 Figure 1.2 PAIR IT WITH CHUNKY ACCESSORIES Wear a cute pastel dress (Figure 2) and pair it with a vibrant handbag (Figure 2.1) and some cool multiple layered bracelets (Figure 2.2). If you don’t want it that minimal and basic, then you can flaunt your style with chunky accessories. Pastel dresses in one color are fabulous for any summer occasion, from office to beach. Well, for me fashion is never completed without some addition of accessories. Figure 2 Figure 2.1 Figure 2.2 DIFFERENT PASTEL COLORS TOGETHER (MIX THEM) Make a different pastel color combo and no vibrant or chunky feel to be added. (Figure 3). This creates a kind of soothing look and at the same time classy. (Figure 3.1). You should never overdo with pastels but do not be afraid of mixing and matching different pastel colors. Figure 3 Figure 3.1 WITH NEUTRALS/ BLACK/ WHITE Keep your outfit simple with neutrals and then pop it up with pastel. This gives a catchy...
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By, Nidhi Krishna (Student) B.Design (Textile Design) Dr. Sakshi Shail (Assistant Professor) Satyam Fashion Institute Batik is one of the world’s oldest living crafts and art forms. It has survived so long, adapting and evolving along the way, and still is made in many parts of the world, by both traditional and contemporary means and suggests, it has some wisdom to yield about sustainability.The design and development of the khadi fabric using batik design, paraffin wax, azoic dyes, khadi fabric were used the traditional batik technique. Batik literally means ‘wax writing’. Batik work is limited, mainly in Naphthol color and partly in solubilized vat dye; it is applied to the fabric in cold condition. The excellence of batik word is, its natural creation of crack design with the help of wax, which is a good resisting material.Batik was traditionally only done on cotton and silk, but nowadays other materials like georgette and crepe are also used. In recent years, ethnic prints and fabrics have become extremely trendy in western fashion and Batik is no exception. The value addition to batik print on Khadi fabric which is usually woven from cotton and may also include silk or wool. Khadi is being promoted by Government of Indian nowadays and batik is also popular in recent trends, which has made an effort to use the traditional floral motifs, warli art motifs and geometrical motifs inspired from Indian monuments for the batik printing. The possible variable was kept in mind and the numbers of samples were prepared and a survey has been conducted. The specific objectives of this topic are to know and compare the traditional natural or floral motifs, geometrical motifs and Warli art motifs. METHOD AND MATERIAL Batik is a “resist” process for making designs on fabric. The artist uses wax to prevent dye from...
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January 3, 2020By,Himanshi Chaudhary (Student) B.Design (Fashion Design)Dr. Neetu Malhotra (h.c), HODMs. Megha Gupta (Assistant Professor) Satyam Fashion Institute Each state in the country is unique by itself as far as textiles and embroidery is concerned or craft is concerned, this is because of the difference in the made of the people, availability of the indigenous textile material, ground fabric, influence of ecology, skills, various motifs, techniques of stitch and thread etc. Today embroidery as a form of art is universal. In India there are various states having their own particular embroidery. One of which is Tamil Nadu famous for various embroidery and art. The study is to create the awareness about the craft of Toda community to make it approachable. The Todu tribes of Nilgiri Hills are expert in embroidery called Toda, which is famous for its distinct style locally known as Pugur, which means flower. This fine embroidery is done by tribal women on shawls adorned with Toda embroidery on shawls called as Phootkuli. The embroidery is done on the stripes of red and black colour. Motifs are worked, by counting the threads. The embroidery is so fine that it looks like weaving. Toda people use the rougher side of the fabric as right side because the embroidery is reversible. This embroidery is carried from one generation to other generation. The embroidery is done basically on cotton fabric by counting the threads. Toda embroidery is a hereditary craft which is known by its geometric motifs and beautiful finish and appears like woven cloth. The embroidery is done on off-white cotton cloth with red and black woollen threads. The hand-embroidery in India has kept alive many art forms that would otherwise possibly lost in time. The Toda women give expression to the beauty of life around them by creating the surrounding...