By,
Kritika Yadav (student)
B.Design (Textile Design)
Satyam Fashion Institute, Noida
Chikankari is a very delicate and intricate shadow work type of embroidery from Uttar Pradesh, India. It is mainly practised in Lucknow and adjoining areas. Initially, the embroidery was done using white yarn, on colour less muslins knows as colourless, today, georgette, chiffon, cotton and other fine fabrics are also being used. From being an embellishment used primarily for decorating clothes, Chikankari embroidery has now spread to home decor items like cushion covers, pillow slips, table linen and so on.
Fig 1: Chikankari of Lucknow
There are various theories behind naming of the term ‘chikankari’. As per one version, the word has been derived from a Persian word chain or shaken, which means creating delicate patterns on a fabrics with threads. According to others, it may be a distorted version of chicken or sequin coin valuing Rs. 4, the amount for which it was bought. Yet another explanations ascribes the term to the chikan in Bengali language which means ‘fine’.
This fine embroidery is popularly known as ‘white embroidery’ as it was primarily done with white cotton threads on sheer muslin cloths to give a very subtle but rich texture to a plain woven fabric.
Techniques used
The technique of creation of a chikan work is artfully done with cotton threads on Pastel shades of light muslin and cotton garments. With increasing popularity, the embroidery is also done with coloured and silk threads in colours to meet the fashion trends and keep chinkari up-to-date. Lucknow is termed as the hub of the chikankari work today.
Chikan work in the recent times is now combined with additional embellishment like Mukaish work where small pieces of flat wires are inserted in the fabric, mainly seen in case of zardozi embroidery, use of bead and mirrors along with the traditional thread embroidery. Currently, chikankari is done on vast varieties of fabrics like cotton, semi-georgette, cotton blends, silk, chiffon, organdie, organza which are light in weight that highlights the embroidery.
Process
The work begins with one or more pattern blocks that are used to block-print a pattern on the ground fabrics. Then, the Embroiderer (karigars) stitches the pattern with minute stitches. Finally, they remove all traces of the printed pattern by washing the embroidered cloth gently.
So, the process of chikankari can be delineated in the following steps:
- Design
- Block printing
- Embroidery
- Washing and finishing
Different Types of Stitches Used in Chikankari :
TEPCHI: It’s a linear, long running stitch done on the fabric which is mainly used to outline the motifs of chikankari.
Fig. 2a: Different stitches of Chikankari
BAKHIYA: This is main stitch used in chikankari, also known as shadow work. It’s mostly done form the wrong side of the fabric in herringbone stitch and the actual design on the front end is seen as a double outline effect. The shadow of the herringbone stitch is visible from front side to give a shadow effect. In a variation, it can be done from wring side as well where it is known as ulti-bakhiya because the crossing threads of a herringbone stitch are visible in the front side.
HOOL: This one looks like a fine eyelet stitch, mainly done in the centre of the floral motifs with buttonhole stitch. Generally, the stitch is created to create a circular effects.
Fig. 2b: Different stitches of Chikankari
ZANZEERA: These are typically chain stitches worked with one thread being on the right side of the fabric. It is also used for enhancing the outline of a shape like flowers or a petal once basic outlines have already been made.
JALI: The jail effect resembles the open thread needle work effect but it is created by pulling the threads strongly so that holes/ openings are visible. These stitches require great precision as the threads are pulled from different directions to give a jali effect.
Fig. 2c: Different stitches of Chikankari
RAHET: An offshoot of the Bakhiya stitch, it is rarely used in its simplest form. Popularly known as “Dohra Bakhiya”, it form a solid line of back stitch on the right side of the fabric. Mostly used to create outline stitches.
PHANDA: This is one of the most commonly used and amongst the well-known stitches in Chikankari. These are French knots created to give filling effects in different motifs.
MURRI: It’s mostly used in making the centre of the flower in simple Chikankari design motifs. The basic difference between a Phanda and Murri is that Murri is a rice shaped design while a Phanda is millet shaped, typically a bullion knot stitch.
Fig. 2d: Different stitches of Chikankari
Designs and Motifs
The design and motifs in Chikankari are varied and mainly derived from nature. The forms of the motifs are stylized which the main essence of Chikankari embroidery, owing to its Persian lineage. We can see all-over designs, borders and corner motifs in this embroidery. The prime categories of motifs are as follows:
- Flora and Fauna
- Crescent shape of Moon
- Mountains
- Rivers
- Tree of Life
- Different types of flowers like Lotus, marigold and Lilly, petunia and Turanj
- Fish
- Jallis and trellis etc.
Fig 3: Motifs used in Chikankari
Chikankari is one of the exquisite hand embroideries of India which is well-known in Indian and international markets for its subtle appeal and exuberant texture. The beauty of the white threads creating a rich 3D effect on plain woven clothes is nothing but magical and lyrical. With newer additions and variations, the love for Chikankari it is never going to fade!
Key words: Chikankari, Lucknow, embroidery, muslin
REFERENCES:
- Http://www.Hand-embroidary.Com/history-of-chikankari.html
- http://travelspedia.Com/southasia/indiauttarpradesh/7919.Html
- Culturalindia.Net/indian-craft/chikankari.html
BOOKS: Manfredi, P. 2017, Chikankari: A Lucknawi Tradition, Niyogi Books, Delhi