KANTHA : FROM OLDEST TO NEWEST - SATYAM FASHION INSTITUTE

By,
Akansha Sharma (student)
B.Design (Textile Design)
Satyam Fashion Institute, Noida

Kantha is an exquisite embroidery, once done out of necessity on the used fabrics or old saris. This age old technique is a beautiful example of textile upcycling at its source. Today, it has become a means of enhancing adornment on saris and other fabrics. It is perhaps the oldest form of Indian embroidery as it can be traced back to the first and second century A.D. It derives its name from the Sanskrit word Kantha meaning ‘rags’, which reflects the fact that Kantha embroidery is made up of discarded garments or cloths.

Fig.1 women engaged in this craft

Stitches Used

Kantha is a women-oriented embroidery of West Bengal. Women often recycled their old saris and dhotis by layering, stitching and embellishing the scrap fabric to make blankets, bed spreads, household articles etc. The cloth used was generally fine cotton but now a days, silk is being extensively used for adding more value to the product. As a self-sustainable craft, even the coloured threads of pallu (end cloth) of the original sari were pulled out and used for embroidery. The predominant stitches used in Kantha are running stitch or darning stitch, other stitches are Chatai [mat pattern], Bakhiya [back stitch], Dal Phor (stem stitch), Tirchi [oblique] and even satin stitch is used. The real Kantha is Do-rukha [double faced] so skillfully made that the design are visible on the both sides.

Fig.2 Stitches used in kantha

Designs and Motifs

Motifs used in Kantha are generally inspired from nature and have its own traditional and religious significance for example lotus, associated with purity, tree of life represents phases of life and sun symbolizes the life etc. Motifs contain flora and fauna motifs and geometrical motifs as well. Now a days, motifs are also developed digitally with the help of CAD software and some of the motifs are also used for fabric printings. We can also see motifs derived from the objects used in the embroiderer’s daily life like comb, utensil, wedding scene, bangles etc. which used to give a feeling of belongingness in the Bengali community.

Fig. 3. Different forms of motifs used in Kantha embroidery

Craft Revival and Promotion

For reviving the essence of Kantha, various activists have been contributing their best efforts. Shamlu Dudeja, known as a teacher and revolutionary, is the one who identified the importance of this craft. She encouraged women to take this craft more seriously in a professional way. She laid the foundation of Kantha embroidery which later became so popular. Kantha embroidery had given employment to women. It is helping women to be entrepreneur and self sustained.

Many designers have also given a contemporary look to kantha such as Tarun Thaliani’s summer / resort collection of 2013. Kantha is now no more limited to household items after many craft innovations and designers worked on kantha. Unlike earlier, rich fabrics are being used to add a dimension to the embroidery to reach the niche market by creating innovative products. There are many products on which kantha is used now a days for example silk saris , cushions, pants, jackets, home furnishings etc. The craft is finding a newer way in the hearts of people and becoming more commercialized day by day.