• September 16, 2020

    KANTHA :  FROM OLDEST TO NEWEST

    By, Akansha Sharma (student) B.Design (Textile Design) Satyam Fashion Institute, Noida Kantha is an exquisite embroidery, once done out of necessity on the used fabrics or old saris. This age old technique is a beautiful example of textile upcycling at its source. Today, it has become a means of enhancing adornment on saris and other fabrics. It is perhaps the oldest form of Indian embroidery as it can be traced back to the first and second century A.D. It derives its name from the Sanskrit word Kantha meaning ‘rags’, which reflects the fact that Kantha embroidery is made up of discarded garments or cloths. Fig.1 women engaged in this craft Stitches Used Kantha is a women-oriented embroidery of West Bengal. Women often recycled their old saris and dhotis by layering, stitching and embellishing the scrap fabric to make blankets, bed spreads, household articles etc. The cloth used was generally fine cotton but now a days, silk is being extensively used for adding more value to the product. As a self-sustainable craft, even the coloured threads of pallu (end cloth) of the original sari were pulled out and used for embroidery. The predominant stitches used in Kantha are running stitch or darning stitch, other stitches are Chatai [mat pattern], Bakhiya [back stitch], Dal Phor (stem stitch), Tirchi [oblique] and even satin stitch is used. The real Kantha is Do-rukha [double faced] so skillfully made that the design are visible on the both sides. Fig.2 Stitches used in kantha Designs and Motifs Motifs used in Kantha are generally inspired from nature and have its own traditional and religious significance for example lotus, associated with purity, tree of life represents phases of life and sun symbolizes the life etc. Motifs contain flora and fauna motifs and geometrical motifs as well.  Now a days,...
  • August 18, 2020

    CROCHET: fits everywhere

    By, Manvi Khanna (Student) B.Design (Fashion Design) Satyam Fashion Institute, Noida   Keeping cool won’t be an issue in spring/summer season 2020 thanks to crochet. You will find this fabric will still in style for next season, with even better design coming our way. It can be worn by different age groups Toddler loves to wear crochet Figure.1.2 Babies turn into toddlers so fast and once they learn to walk, it is the perfect time for crochet toddler dress. Toddlers are more comfortable with short bursts of soothing colourful environments. As in (Figure.1.1) toddler is wearing a colourful crochet dress. It always make a fun look with matching hair band. (Figure.1.4) A vintage White crochet dress with embellished flower at the waist we can also pair it with matching decorative crochet hat (Figure.1.2) and sandals will increase the cuteness of the toddler. We (Figure.1.3). Figure.1.1 Figure .1.3 Figure .1.4  Crochet dresses for Women Formal Attire When dressing for the office, it’s important to feel comfortable as you will be wearing these clothes all day .Here’s a decent black crochet dress which will intensify your persona (Figure.2.1). Don’t forget to pair it with white croc pointed block heels (Figure.2.2) and white clutch in faux leather with narrow shoulder strap in faux leather and metal chain (Figure.2.3). And accessorised with long drop pearl earrings (Figure.2.4) Figure .2.2 Figure .2.1 Figure .2.3 Figure .2.4 Beach wears Swimsuits aren’t the only cute wear you can rock on the beach. You can also slay at the beach with Crochet attire. Here’s a stunning dark grey off shoulder crochet dress (Figure.3.1) you can try to wear at the beach. Pair it with simple straps thong lace flat sandals (Figure.3.2) and complementing Panama hat (Figure.3.3). Figure.3.1 Figure .3.3 Figure .3.2 Cocktail wear Cocktail attire for women can be...
  • By, Riya Tyagi (Student) B.Design (Textile Design) Satyam Fashion Institute Kasuti is a style of embroidery that has caught the world unaware, the kasuti style of Dharwad sarees are indeed mystic. A style that has found its origins in the seven scenic hills, kasuti is a hand-woven variety of embroidery. Basically, found in the Silk pallus, Kasuti embroidery consists of interwoven geometric patterns that make up for this interesting design. It has mostly been adapted from the temple designs and architectural musings of the surroundings. Image: Stitches of Kasuti – In two colours for understanding the technique of creating reversible designs This style originated way back in the 7th century in the lands of Western Karnataka in the regions of Dharwad. This is the real source of the name Dharwad Sarees The name has a very kannada feel to it with Kai’ meaning hand and Suti’ meaning Cotton to make up for Kasuti embroidery which literally means handwork of Cotton thread. This embroidery pattern found its source in the Ikal sarees, a variety of cotton sarees found in the regions of Ikal. The tradition followed was to gift a bride a blue embroidered Cotton Saree. These patterns are close folded and, formed out of four stitches known as gavanti, muragi, nevgi and menthe. These stitches are completely based on the thread count method and are equidistant. Today, this embroidery is  no longer just prevalent in sarees. One can find fine traces of this embroidery in salwar suits and dress materials as well. Employing various kasuti weavers by bringing in the tradition of this embroidery in sarees and dress materials gives out a splendid present time for the Dharwad sarees. The materials are not limited to Cotton anymore. They have started ranging from Silk to other varieties including Nylon. Kasuti embroidery is...
  • By, Ujjwal Ankur , Asst. Professor Satyam Fashion Institute Art can be defined as the”Representation of Imagination and Observation through any medium on any surface with an aesthetic sense. And Technology can be defined as the application of scientific knowledge for the practical purpose. Art and Technology are very much related to each other. Very interestingly, this is not a new phenomenon. Normally people consider technology as a new and modern term but it is not. From the ancient age of the world, the art was made with the influence and help of its contemporary technology. The field of art is filled with numerous examples of such cases.. We can classify its relation with technology in three parts. Art depicting Technology Art influenced by the Technology Art made with the use of Technology   1. Art which depicts technology: Figure 1: Terracotta Sculpture, Indus Valley Civilization 1 From the very beginning, artists tried to show the contemporary as well as futuristic technologies through their art. Depiction Figure 2: Terracotta Sculpture, Indus Valley Civilization 2 of Bullock Cart from the terracotta sculptures and practice of pot making and metal casting with the use of lost wax process in one of the oldest civilizations of the world known as Indus Valley Civilization which was around 5000 years ago from now shows the close relation between art and technology. Figure 3: Sketch of Leonardo Da Vinci  3 The legacy continues with the sketches of Flying Machines by Leonardo Da Vinci at the time of High Renaissance (14th century), Paintings of Turner in the era of Romanticism (18th Century) and so on. 2. Art influenced by the Technology: Figure 4: A Sunday on La Grande Jatte by Seurat 4 The close and real interaction with the technology and art can be traced when camera was...
  • By, Dr. Vandana Jaglan,  Principal Satyam Fashion Institute It’s been quite a time now that I have started reusing my old stuff like books, papers, jewellery, garments, sarees etc.  This was mainly due to the fact that I feel so attached to certain things that I really love to keep them for longer time. Also, it helped me to give a new look or new use to my best kept oldies. Since the lockdown period started in India due to spread of coronavirus pandemic, all of us had a setback and really had to rethink the ways we have been working/ spending our time and we tried to adapt to what all was becoming a new normal. There was a scarcity of resources, essentials at many places; shopping list got changed where everyone was buying protective masks, kits; people were rushing to their home towns to save their lives.  We were in a fix as things weren’t happening the way it should have been. But, amidst all of this, there was a new wave of trying to cook new recipes, learn new skills, develop new hobbies and be with your loved ones which set a new world’s vision. This was the time for us to re-invent, redo and redefine our priorities – and of all, we learnt to be flexible, I suppose. As a textile enthusiast, I also wanted to do my bit by indulging myself creating something useful for me, my family and those around me. So, I tried to make mask from old clothes with minimum (actually almost no) wastage. Here is a glimpse of what I could do with what I had….                
  • By, Anushka Jha (Student) B.Design (Textile Design) Dr. Sakshi Shail, Assistant Professor Satyam Fashion Institute Dabu Print A traditional art and originated from the pockets of Rajasthan, Dabu print is a detailed, unique and mud resist hand block printing technique. Dabu print fabric has its own charm and beauty that is appreciated around the world. The practice of Dabu print, almost vanished in the last century; but it was revived by artisans and today, it is a flourishing business across the world. Dabu print fabric is known for displaying subtle depth and extra ordinary beauty. The designs and motifs of Dabu Printing are very similar to the traditional Rajasthani designs. These are inspired by natural alignments like plants, birds, flowers, fruits and artistic ethnic motifs which really look beautiful. Many fashion designers have taken inspiration from Dabu print fabric and have created beautiful garment collections. The appearance of these fabrics is unique for the brilliant floral and thematic patterns in sharp and finely detailed prints of bright and well-chosen hues & designs that embrace the fabric. Making: The process of making is very interesting and involves different stages. Firstly, the fabric received from the mills is carefully washed to remove impurities. The motifs and designs are printed on to the fabric using blocks which are dipped into fast dyes. After that the fabric is spread out in sun for the drying, and later dipped into a vat of dye and then again left for drying. And this is how this beautiful Rajasthani Handicraft is made.     Colors and dyes: Traditional dabu prints are made with natural dyes like kashish (grey-brown) and indigo (blue), as well as yellows and reds derived from fruits like pomegranate. Today a lot more color options are available to artisans since they are no longer restricted to...
  • By, Ms Megha Gupta, Assistant Professor Satyam Fashion Institute A match is more essential than pleasant. A person might have a garment of the highest construction, but if it doesn’t suit you well, it’ll look terrible. Improper fitting of clothes’ affects the buying decision of the customers. The top concern of clients especially teens and girls is, to purchase clothes that have the right fitting and yet fashionable. The clothes, which after carrying, does not display any wrinkles pull or useless fluffiness are of the right match. Also, the garments with right located seams, darts, and grain lines have the best fitting ( Figure 1). The importance of the right fit of garment varies with its type. Like in the case of tight-becoming dress smallest of misfit is quite seen and noticeable, while for loose-becoming garments 100% proper in shape isn’t always required and does not make plenty difference. Figure 1 : (source) Apart from the customers, the ready-made garment producers and outlets also endure the consequences in terms of loss of time, assets and damage to merchandise because of fitting issue problems. Whether a particular garment is bought or rejected is decided primarily based on its match other than its visual attractiveness. However well-fitted garments do not imply that they have got to be body-hugging or tight, different varieties of attire and clothes want a special diploma of the becoming, as the right becoming criteria for nighttime wear and nightwear, is different. Issues related to Fitting and Sizing:   Sizing Creation- It varies from one label to another, therefore inflicting dissatisfaction among clients. In India, the multinational corporations manufacturing clothes in step with the English and American requirements which aren’t at all practical. Body Variations- The sizing standards need to be organized in line with sexes and specific age...
  • May 2, 2020

    Masks: Today’s essential

    By, Dr. Sakshi Shail (Assistant Professor) Satyam Fashion Institute A surgical mask is a loose-fitting disposable device that creates a physical barrier between mouth and nose of the wearer and potential contaminants in the immediate environment. It also prevents a human being from direct transmission of infectious disease. Normal activities such as sneezing, coughing, breathing and speaking may release oral, dermal and nasopharyngeal bacteria that may cause post-operative infections. This review focuses on surgical face masks and their classification based on the performance like filtration efficiency, pressure difference, splash resistance etc. Further, the quality evaluation of surgical face masks and standards for manufacturing surgical face masks has also been reviewed. Keywords: Surgical face mask, operation procedures, hospital infections, pathogens, filtration efficiency. Surgical mask fabric should be highly breathable, comfortable, soft and gentle on the skin. Lightweight and single-use fabrics used for the construction of surgical face masks. A surgical face mask has the primary objective of protecting the medical professional and patient from fluids. Since face masks can be worn for long periods of time, the nonwoven fabric used to construct the face mask should be soft and gentle on the skin. The custom of facemask-wearing began in Japan during the early years of the 20th century, when a massive pandemic of influenza killed between 20 and 40 million people around the world—more than died in World War I. There were outbreaks of the disease on every inhabited continent, including Asia (where it devastated India, leading to the deaths of a full 5% of the population). Covering the face with scarves, veils and masks became a prevalent (if ineffective) means of warding off the disease in many parts of the world, until the epidemic finally faded at the end of 1919.  How should face mask be worn? Always wash your hands with soap and water...
  • By, Dr. Neetu Malhotra, HOD Satyam Fashion Institute, Noida         Figure:1  Figure:2 The days are gone when kids used to wear everything and anything that their parents used to choose for them. Now kids always want to be dressed in fashionable clothes as they want to be a fashionable kid. They want to be dressed in attires of their own choice and have their own favourites. Kids wear has a lot of variety which includes kids fashion clothing, kids nightwear, kids readymade garments, kids rompers, kids tops, kids knitted wear, kids winter clothing, kids summer clothing, organic clothing. It is important for parents to encourage creative choices, it is always better for a kid to choose style they feel comfortable as they desire to attract the attention of kids of their age .They want to choose their clothing from designer collection for kids. Always encourage child to choose colours and style they like, as opposed to setting for what everyone else tells them to wear as eye catching colours and attractive designs tells their personality and style also help them to stand out of the crowd and this will attract the attention of people of all age groups. Childhood is the learning phase of life, where children should take up good things in life; develop good taste on everything and today kids are very conscious about dressings and their appearance. On the top of that parents are very keen to spend on this occasion. Figure:3     Figure:4 A number of factors should be taken into consideration before buying clothes for children, some of these are : Comfort : it is important that the clothes should be comfortable. Make them select their clothes as well this will be happy wearing what they select, this way they will be happy...
  • By, Dr. Vandana Jaglan, Principal Satyam Fashion Institute ‘Design‘ in its literal sense means ‘to create or contrive for a particular purpose or effect’. Design, in general, always have a purpose be it personal gratification, solution for a problem, technical requirement, social issues or any fashion related emergence. When we talk about creating a new design, we first look into the need of the creation, work on getting the list of all what is required to be achieved by the design and ask the basic questions for its existence. While answering these questions, we end up getting a rough idea of what we want to create or what is going to be the DESIGN. All the designs created are based on the quests of the designers and artists to add solution to a working problem like how the basic design of a dining plate was conceptualised and how is it different from the basic design of a spoon. This is because the need  of both the products are different which is the starting point of the design quest! Coming to the field of costume design, this is an area which is totally based on the need of the story to portray the characters in the best possible way. The Oxford English Dictionary defines costume as ‘the clothes worn by people from a particular place or during a particular historical period’. Also, it states that costumes are the clothes worn by the actors in a play or film to make them look like something else. In costume design, the most important factor is the realism achieved through costumes within the confines of a script. ‘‘Costume design in films is believed to be embedded in the story and adds significant information to achieve its visual and narrative aspects and helps to achieve...