By,
Kratika Maheshwari (student)
B.Design (Textile Design)
Satyam Fashion Institute, Noida
As we know that the word Phulkari is derived from two words Phul means flower where Akari means shape. In other words, we can said that phulkari is a traditional embroidery of Punjab which generally defines a way of making floral pattern, designs on the fabrics and garments. It is an embroidery which is innovative in terms of the beautiful, shiny texture created on a dull fabric. It has a ceremonial significance as these are commonly in wedding ceremonies and cultural events in the Punjabi families.
Techniques and motifs
Phulkari derives its richness from the use of darning stitch in different directions horizontal, vertical and diagonal. Unless others, embroidery on phulkari was done from the wrong side of the khaddar with a floss silk thread called pat.
Fig 1: Darning stitches used in Phulkari
Process (Step by step)
Begin by pulling the needle and floss up through the fabric and do one stitch forward. From underneath, space the needle out the length of your desired stitch, pull up through the fabric, and bring the needle and floss back down through the end of the previous stitch.
Fig. 2 Geometric designs used in Phulkari
The very beautiful and popular motifs were used in embroidery are geometric adapted from local flora and fauna likejasmine flower(motia), lotus(kamal), peacock(mor), sunflower (surajmukhi)etc. Various other geometrical shapes and pattern were embroidered on the dupattas or odhni.
Fig. 3. Phulkari embroidery on different products
Ceremonial Significance: An Expression
Wearing a work on phulkari is not only an object of beauty but it is strongly reflected in the cultural values of a family. There is a phulkari for every occasion!
A rich heritage of Punjab which is generally represented in Indian wedding and celebrations was initiated by the nankai of bride and groom (maternal families). The nankai arrive at the wedding home of the bride/groom with much fun fare including singing and dancing.
Fig. 4. Bridal entry under the phulkarichhadar
Fig. 5. A set of phulkari embroidery indifferent functions for a wedding ceremony
This adorable craft is passed on from generations to generations. It is said that when a boy is born in the family, his grandmother starts making a phulkari to be gifted to his bride as a symbol of love and prosperity. The colourful phulkari is also used as a divan cover for guests. It is used to cove the religious book ‘Guru Granth Sahib’. This auspicious piece is taken over the shoulders in all the ceremonial functions to signify the lushness of its culture.
Therefore, a Phulkari is truly a symbol of love, care and pride in Punjab – A Dharohar in every Family!!
Key words: Phulkari, Punjab, Odhni, Darning stitch, Indian Wedding.
References:-
- Dani, S. andGarg, R. (2013). A comparative study on phulkari embroidery tehniques on ladies suit. Asian J Home Sci. 8(2): 680-683
- Malik, S.B. (2011). From Silk to Synthetic Phulkari: The Long Journey of a Period Textile. International Journal of Humanities & Social science , VOL 1 (16)
- Jarnail Singh (2018) Jago traditional wedding ceremony culture
- https://www.culturalindia.net/weddings/regional-weddings/punjabi-wedding.html