By,
Himanshi Chaudhary (Student)
B.Design (Fashion Design)
Dr. Neetu Malhotra (h.c), HOD
Ms. Megha Gupta (Assistant Professor)
Satyam Fashion Institute
Figure 1, Todu tribe women performing TODA embroidery.
Each state in the country is unique by itself as far as textiles and embroidery is concerned or craft is concerned, this is because of the difference in the made of the people, availability of the indigenous textile material, ground fabric, influence of ecology, skills, various motifs, techniques of stitch and thread etc. Today embroidery as a form of art is universal. In India there are various states having their own particular embroidery. One of which is Tamil Nadu famous for various embroidery and art. The study is to create the awareness about the craft of Toda community to make it approachable. The Todu tribes of Nilgiri Hills are expert in embroidery called Toda, which is famous for its distinct style locally known as Pugur, which means flower. This fine embroidery is done by tribal women on shawls adorned with Toda embroidery on shawls called as Phootkuli. The embroidery is done on the stripes of red and black colour. Motifs are worked, by counting the threads. The embroidery is so fine that it looks like weaving. Toda people use the rougher side of the fabric as right side because the embroidery is reversible. This embroidery is carried from one generation to other generation. The embroidery is done basically on cotton fabric by counting the threads.
Figure 2, Traditional Toda Embroidery Fabric
Toda embroidery is a hereditary craft which is known by its geometric motifs and beautiful finish and appears like woven cloth. The embroidery is done on off-white cotton cloth with red and black woollen threads. The hand-embroidery in India has kept alive many art forms that would otherwise possibly lost in time. The Toda women give expression to the beauty of life around them by creating the surrounding of threads and bringing out many untold tales of love and affection. Today embroideries are amidst of an identity crisis as their art of tradition are threatened because the beliefs and values that inhibited and sustained them are crumbling. Loosely matted cotton fabric, thick woollen threads an a metal needle is used as raw material. The thickness of thread ensures, the pattern is finished with a raised look. No frame is used to stretch the fabric, instead they use fingers to stretch the fabric. Toda women without numerical literacy, they skilfully embroider patterns with geometric precision without any external aids like scale or stencil. Therefore, the designs evolving are geometrical and appear very similar to woven patterns. Now, Toda people adopted changes seen in the textile industry, they have started using ply woollen thread and power loom material.
Figure 3, Bucket Bag with Toda embroidery on it.
Toda embroidery itself is a creative craft of Toda tribal community and its unique technique of doing it, makes it different from others. It is concluded that, this unique embroidery is very useful for the apparel industry to make any product differently and gives the product a unique identity, the embroidery can be used in any product for example- bags, accessories, foot wears, merchandise etc. The collection is commercially viable as the costing to develop the range with this embroidery was not too high. The study is a step forward to promote this unique craft of Toda tribal community. And also the unique style of the embroidery makes the product attractive; this will help manufacturers to produce such attractive products with the use of this embroidery with minimal cost.
Graduating Fashion Show – Satyam Fashion Institute, Noida