{"id":378,"date":"2020-11-09T09:15:24","date_gmt":"2020-11-09T09:15:24","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/satyamfashion.ac.in\/blog\/?p=378"},"modified":"2020-11-09T09:15:33","modified_gmt":"2020-11-09T09:15:33","slug":"chikankari-an-elegant-thread-embroidery-of-uttar-pradesh","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/satyamfashion.ac.in\/blog\/chikankari-an-elegant-thread-embroidery-of-uttar-pradesh\/","title":{"rendered":"CHIKANKARI \u2013 AN ELEGANT THREAD EMBROIDERY OF UTTAR PRADESH"},"content":{"rendered":"

By,
\nKritika Yadav (student)
\nB.Design\u00a0(<\/u>Textile Design)<\/a>
\nSatyam Fashion Institute, Noida<\/a><\/p>\n

Chikankari <\/em><\/a>is a very delicate and intricate shadow work type of embroidery from Uttar Pradesh, India. It is mainly practised in Lucknow<\/a> and adjoining areas. Initially, the embroidery was done using white yarn, on colour less muslins knows as colourless, today, georgette, chiffon, cotton and other fine fabrics are also being used. From being an embellishment used primarily for decorating clothes, Chikankari<\/em> embroidery has now spread to home decor items like cushion covers, pillow slips, table linen and so on.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

\"\"Fig 1: Chikankari of Lucknow<\/p>\n

There are various theories behind naming of the term \u2018chikankari\u2019<\/em>. As per one version, the word has been derived from a Persian word chain or shaken, which means creating delicate patterns on a fabrics with threads. According to others, it may be a distorted version of chicken or sequin coin valuing Rs. 4, the amount for which it was bought. Yet another explanations ascribes the term to the chikan<\/em> in Bengali language which means \u2018fine\u2019.<\/p>\n

This fine embroidery is popularly known as \u2018white embroidery\u2019 as it was primarily done with white cotton threads on sheer muslin cloths to give a very subtle but rich texture to a plain woven fabric.<\/p>\n

Techniques used<\/strong><\/h3>\n

The technique of creation of a chikan work is artfully done with cotton threads on Pastel shades of light muslin<\/a> and cotton garments. With increasing popularity, the embroidery is also done with coloured and silk threads in colours to meet the fashion trends and keep chinkari <\/em>up-to-date. Lucknow is termed as the hub of the chikankari<\/em> work today.<\/p>\n

Chikan <\/em>work in the recent times is now combined with additional embellishment like Mukaish work where small pieces of flat wires are inserted in the fabric, mainly seen in case of zardozi<\/em> embroidery, use of bead and mirrors along with the traditional thread embroidery<\/a>. Currently, chikankari<\/em> is done on vast varieties of fabrics like cotton, semi-georgette, cotton blends, silk, chiffon, organdie, organza which are light in weight that highlights the embroidery.<\/p>\n

Process<\/strong><\/h3>\n

The work begins with one or more pattern blocks that are used to block-print a pattern on the ground fabrics. Then, the Embroiderer (karigars<\/em>) stitches the pattern with minute stitches. Finally, they remove all traces of the printed pattern by washing the embroidered cloth gently.<\/p>\n

So, the process of chikankari<\/em> can be delineated in the following steps:<\/p>\n